
The Chalukyan Trail
North Karnataka’s Gems.
Angkor Wat is lovely, but have you seen Pattadakal?
On a misty December morning, we watched the sun rise over Pattadakal. As the light grew stronger,
it was as if someone slowly lifted veils from the monuments, revealing them in radiant gold. In that
moment, we understood why this place deserves to be called one of India's greatest treasures.
These are not just remnants of a glorious past—they are stories carved in stone. Pattadakal speaks
of artistic brilliance, architectural confidence, and a remarkable inclusivity of ideas, brought to life
by the Chalukyan vision. Every Indian, I believe, must experience this UNESCO World Heritage
Site at least once. Our year-end vacation surprised us in more ways than one. We are deeply grateful for the opportunity to travel through what is, in my opinion, one of the finest heritage landscapes I’ve ever encountered—anywhere in the world. Having already explored much of Karnataka, we were certain this trip had to be a road journey. After contemplating several routes, we chose a region we had long intended to visit but never quite reached.
Why the Chalukyan Trail?
After exploring the Pandya and Chola trails earlier in the year, we felt drawn to the less celebrated
but equally magnificent Chalukyan dynasty. These stone stories at Pattadakal, Badami, and Aihole
express the remarkable art, inclusivity, and creativity of Chalukyan architects. This journey, in many ways, became our own Chalukyan trail.
The Journey: A 7-Day Immersive Experience
Days 1-2: Western Ghats & Hidden Gems
We began at a heritage property in the Western Ghats, our base for visiting Jog Falls. While the falls
themselves were underwhelming due to construction and low water levels, the stay more than
compensated with unforgettable cuisine and warm hospitality.
The true discoveries came at Keladi and Ikkeri—hidden architectural marvels that few travellers
know about. These gems reminded us why exploring beyond the guidebook is so rewarding.
Days 3-4: Coastal Interlude at Byndoor
Every great journey needs balance. We drove to the coast at Byndoor for a rejuvenating beach stay.
Mornings brought dolphin sightings on boat rides, afternoons filled with water sports, and evenings
spent painting and embroidering by the shore. These wholesome, fulfilling experiences created the
perfect counterpoint to our heritage explorations.
Day 5: Hubli & the Badami Caves
After a strategic overnight stop in Hubli to break the journey (essential with children on long
drives), we reached the highlight of our route. The Badami Cave Temples, a UNESCO World
Heritage Site, left us spellbound. Pleasant, windy weather enhanced the marvel of these rock-cut
sanctuaries.
Days 6-7: Aihole & Pattadakal
The Heart of the Journey We based ourselves at a stunning heritage property in Aihole, new yet utterly authentic. From here, we explored the soul of Chalukyan civilization. Our first afternoon included a visit to a nearby weaver's cooperative, where we witnessed the entire handloom process from raw materials to finished fabric. These cultural connections enrich travel in ways monuments alone cannot.
Pattadakal: The Crown Jewel
The next morning brought the experience that inspired this journey. We arrived at the Pattadakal
group of monuments at 7 AM, just after opening. The early hour gifted us with empty pathways,
chilly morning air, and that magical dawn light.
Having visited Angkor Wat exactly one year prior, I can confidently say: Pattadakal stands as one of
the world's most extraordinary heritage sites. The craftsmanship, the preservation, the sheer artistic vision—it's breathtaking.
Insider Tips:
• Arrive at opening time (6:30 AM) to experience the monuments without crowds
• Engage a knowledgeable guide—their insights transform the visit
• Visit during winter months for ideal weather After exploring Pattadakal, we visited the Aihole temple complex, another architectural wonder. The entire town feels like a living heritage site, with ruins gracing every corner. Though afternoon heat and crowds challenged the children's patience, the experience remained extraordinary.
Beyond Monuments: Weaving Culture into Travel
Our journey to Ilkal's weaving centers added another cultural dimension. Watching master weavers
create the region's famous sarees connected us to living traditions that complement the ancient
stones.
Why This Journey Matters
This wasn't just a vacation—it was a rejuvenating exploration that reminded us why immersive,
curated travel matters. When you take time to truly experience a region's heritage, cuisine, crafts,
and landscapes, you return transformed.
India is incredible. But to truly appreciate that, you need to venture beyond the well-trodden paths. The Chalukyan trail offers exactly that: a journey through lesser-known wonders that rival the world's most famous sites.

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